Peru 4


On Tuesday, the 25th of October, we toured Old Lima and found some "Then and Now" targets.  Our first goal was to find the "Torre Tagle Palace".  The first picture is from "South American Excursion" by Ernst Young, printed in 1940 (pictures are from the 1930's).  The second picture is from "All the Best in South America, West Coast", by Sydney Clark and printed in 1954.




This is the way it appears today.....

The only apparent changes are the first floor's window stone work and the age of the cars.....




We were surprised, since the building was pink on the outside, to find it's interior was yellow.
We were told that this wall hanging was originally on the pointed end of a ship.
Built in the 1700's....

Our next goal was to locate this statue of Francisco Pizzarro.....

The photo is from a book entitled "Fireside Travels in South America", by James Fitzpatrick, printed in 1948.



We found the Cathedral, where the statue was located, but the statue was missing..... A new building was located off to the side of the Cathedral, but no Francisco Pizzarro.  Did the Peruvian's finally do to Francisco, what Francisco did to the Inca's?


In this picture from 1908 (from "The Other America's", by Arthur Ruhl, printed in 1908) the statue was also missing.

So, it showed up some time between 1908 and 1948.

Then it disappeared sometime between 1948 and 2005....


So we showed the photo to many people.  When asked if they knew where the statue was, the typical response was sure.....  It is now located in "So and so park", or "in front of so and so hotel".  But we continued to ask and finally, about 3 blocks from the Cathedral, we found the statue in a new park.....




We got a match....... 

Who'd a thought that they would move a statue of this size......

So we learned a lesson....  Statues can be moved....


Since we had already located the Cathedral, located on the main plaza, in the old section of Lima, it was now time to replicate the photo "Today".  This picture was from "The Other America's", by Arthur Ruhl, printed in 1908).  Based on the angle in the photo, we knew that we could not replicate the photo from street level.

 


It appeared that in order to get the photo we desired, we would have to talk our way into the tallest church steeple in Lima.
The bell towers are basically empty structures inside, so that the bells can be lifted into position.

There are five levels in this section of the tower (the lower rail, then the arches with railing, then the small arches with railing, then railing only, then very small openings just below the angel).

So, we tell David, a guide for the church and convent, what we would like to do, and he states that the towers are not open to visitors. 

We show him some of the old photos and told him what we wanted to do. 

He responds, stating that he will see if he can get permission.

He succeeded in getting the keys!

And we start the climb.

The first few levels had rails for the staircase, but it was obvious, from the thick dust on the railing, that people do not come up to these bells very often.

Sandy climbed about 70 percent of the tower, but when she completed this staircase, she saw that this was the end of railings.

This was her turning point.....

The ladders, from here on up, are nearly vertical.
And still higher.....

David said he had been up to the large bells 3 times, but had never climbed to the peak of the steeple.

Looking down on a 6 foot diameter bell.



A lot of new high rise buildings have been built since 1908.  The large church in the upper right hand corner is still there, but hidden by new buildings.  The building in the foreground has had a floor or two added.  Since 1908 the building to the left of the church has also grown.  So, another "Then and Now" completed.


Another picture of the Cathedral, from the steeple, was in the book from Frank Carpenter's "Carpenter's World Travels, Familiar Talks About Countries and People", printed in 1926.  The wood posts have been replaced and the bricks have been plastered.



Sandy, standing where the Father was standing....


Another pictures from Frank Carpenter's "Carpenter's World Travels, Familiar Talks About Countries and People", printed in 1926.  This is the main Cathedral in Lima.  It is also where the remains of Francisco Pizzarro are located.



Our next goal was to locate the park shown in this picture below.  The photo is from a book entitled "Fireside Travels in South America", by James Fitzpatrick, printed in 1948.  This should have been an easy "find" as we knew the name of the park, "Parque Aliados".  The park "Parque Aliasos" no longer exists.  We gave up, but stumbled on the park while looking for another location.  The park is now called "Parque de la Reserva". 

Lesson number 1 - Statues are moved.

Lesson number 2 - Places change names.




The park was undergoing a restoration during our visit.  The pot in the lower left side of the original photo was missing.  You can see the "Ring" where the pot once sat!


Same photo, with the GS included.

And yet, another "Then and Now" completed.


The next goal was to find this statue.....

In the book it was stated that it was located in the "Parque Aliasos", the park which changed it's name to "Parque de la Reserva".  Guess what?  Another case of a missing statue.  But, as we were riding around town, Sandy spotted it as we rode past the park "Paseo de la Republica", directly in front of the "Palacio de Justicia".  It had been moved about 2 miles.  The base of the original statue was not moved.




Statue, with Sandy and the GS.


We were optimistic to think we would find the next "Then and Now" target, as it was made of wood.  We were, but it has been replaced.  Expecting a wood structure to last 97 years was unreasonable....

This picture is from the 1908 book, "The Other America's", by Arthur Ruhl.


And the current track....


The next one was easy to find.  It was the "Palacio de Gobierno", on the main square.  It was also from "Fireside Travels in South America" (1948).




No change.  And they won't open the gates for a picture.  Go figure......

So I had to poke the camera through the iron gates......



The next find was the easiest find for the trip.  The name of the park had not changed and the statue had not been moved!  But we did have to get permission to enter the top floors of  the "Hotel Bolivar".  As it turned out, the 6 story hotel only uses the first 4 floors.  The top 2 floors are abandoned and un-restored.  After waiting about 20 minutes for security escorts, and light switches located, we gained entry to the rooms above "Plaza San Martin".  There were a few new high rises in the background.  Notice that the steeple in the background was still standing.  The "Cine Metro" sign was gone.  (The original picture is from "The Other America's, Our Neighbors to the South", written in 1943 by Edward Tomlinson).

PS: The picture we took was taken from 1 floor lower than the original, but the hotel staff spent a lot of time and effort to get us to the 5th floor, and we started to feel as though we would be pushing their hospitality.




The entire Plaza was preparing for a concert performance....


Another photo search was from the Frank Carpenter's "Carpenter's World Travels, Familiar Talks About Countries and People", printed in 1926.  The book gave no name or location of this monument.  We just stumbled on it during our rides through Lima, which is a huge city of 8,000,000 people.



Today, there are still policemen on horses, but I did not have the nerve to ask them to pose!  The old buildings were, most likely, built soon after the original picture was taken in 1926.  Many of the buildings in this area had dates of 1926 though 1934.  The "New" buildings are now dilapidated and very run down!


Our final "Then and Now", in the Lima area, were the ruins of Pachacamac.  This turned out to be another "City" of ruins covering several square miles.  The original photo was from the book "Pan American Highway, From the Rio Grande to the Canal Zone Through South America", written in 1940 by Herbert Lanks and Harry Franck.  It was 4:00 pm and we where told that to walk through the ruins takes about 2 1/2 hours.  We were running out of daylight, so we asked for an introduction to the on-site archeologist, and fortunately he spoke English.  He looked at the photo and the hills in the background and immediately identified the location.  He also stated that trees had been planted since the 1940's, which would limit our view of the sand dunes on the horizon.  He knew, immediately, that the picture was pre 1944, as Max Uhle had restored the ruins just prior to his death.  Max Uhle is considered the father of archaeology in South America because of the unparalleled amount of time and research that he has devoted to the development of South American archaeology. 

If you look closely, through the trees, in our photograph, you can see the dunes.




This page of "Then and Now's" is getting pretty long, so we will post additional pictures of Lima on the next page.


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