Chile 3

On the 3rd of December we rode around the area of Vina del Mar and locate a "Then and Now" road.  This was actually one of the toughest spots to take an "exact" picture, as I had to climb a vertical cliff, then step to the edge of a sandy slope.  Every step caused the slope, and me, to slide.  The picture is from Sydney Clark's book of 1954, "The West Coast of South America".

Sandy, yelling and asking if our insurance premiums are paid!

And I thought she cared....

Not much has changed in 50 years. 

The bridge has been rebuilt, but it is still a beautiful spot, on the coast of Chile.

The view, looking the other direction (south).

The next "Then and Now" was from the same book of 1954.  It was a night shot of the harbor in Valparaiso.  We went to the area during the day to find the spot and realized that to come back here at night was going to be a quick "Shoot and Run".  During the day it was very safe, but when we went back at night, as we got off the bus, the bus driver pointed at his eyes, indicating to watch out....

The picture was taken about 50 feet from the top of the ascensor "Artilleria".

Again, it is kind of neat to follow the "Steps" of the author, who wrote the book 50 years ago!

Again, not a lot of change, although many of the buildings are new.

Daytime shot from the same spot.

A small beach near Valparaiso.
We were told that many years ago an earthquake leveled a cemetery similar to this cemetery.

Valparaiso is very steep, and the bones rolled MANY BLOCKS down the streets of Valparaiso!

Valparaiso in the foreground.

Vina del Mar in the far distance.

One of 13 ascensors in Valparaiso.
Sandy would not ride this ascensor, as it looked a little too rickety for her!

She was concerned about what would happen if the brakes failed!

I told her that she needed to stop worrying about the small things in life!

She told me to bite it!

I rode solo, to the top....

On the 4th of December we are off to Santiago, Chile

Almost felt like we had returned to Southern California!
The toll road to Santiago, with the Andes, which are always present, in the background.

It was a lot like the Temecula area of Southern California.

It was time to get new tires.

I told Sandy to relax, as the mechanics were changing the tires as quickly as possible!

Hey, I had pictures to take.....

Very nice........
On Monday, the 5th, we finally get to meet Jose Pedro Espinosa. 

We have been sending emails back and forth for nearly a year. 

He has been telling us that we will like Chile.  We love it!

We had a very enjoyable dinner in a restaurant which spins slowly over Santiago.

Again, Santiago is a fantastic city (view from the spinning restaurant).

On the 6th of December, it is time for another "Then and Now".  The original picture is from the 1948 book, Fireside Travels in South America, by James Fitzpatrick.

On the top of historic and park-like Cerro Santa Lucia stands the statue of a priest watching over the city of Santiago.  Santa Lucia is where the city of Santiago was founded in 1554 by Pedro de Vildia.

While taking this picture, I knew I was standing in exactly the same spot as James Fitzpatrick stood in 1948.  The picture was taken standing on a VERY small point on top of a very large boulder. 

Maybe I need a shrink, but I do enjoy standing in the exact same spot, for a few minutes, as somebody else stood many years ago, and day ream about what it was like and what he was thinking 57 years ago.  How rough were his travels?  Was he as well received, by the locals, as Sandy and I are today?

I do feel as though I am "living" the books which I have read over the last 10 years.  That, in itself, is really neat!

The following is a better picture, from the same spot. 

In the original picture, the tallest building was about 3 stories tall.  Things have changed!

One of KTM's best dealerships in the world (right behind Malcolm Smith's in Riverside, California) is located in Santiago, Chile.
Very modern and clean!
The end of another day in Santiago...

In Santiago, we have more "Then and Now's" of anywhere in South America.  We will have to wait to finish some of the pictures when we return in early 2006, but we tried to squeeze as many in, prior to heading home for Christmas.  The next picture was taken at the Club Hipico, a very famous horse racing track in Santiago.  This picture was also from the 1948 book, Fireside Travels in South America, by James Fitzpatrick.  When you have not been to a location, you have no idea if it faces North, South, East or West.  We went to the Hipico in the morning, but as it turned out, it faces west, so we revisited the place in the afternoon.  There were a few changes like the pot on the column!  The Hipico was built in 1870, and modeled after the Longchamps track in Paris.

The next "Then and Now" was of the train station in Santiago.  I am not 100% sure who designed it.  Most people say it was designed by Gustavo Eiffel, but I have also found information that it was designed by Emilio Jequier, a Chilean architect who studied in Paris under the direction of Gustavo Eiffel.  Who knows?  I believe that it was "Built" in Paris by the company "Le Creuzot", in 1887.  It is built entirely of metal.

The horse drawn cars and electric trolleys are now LONG gone. 

And the yellow busses will also disappear soon, as they are being replaced with articulating "double busses".  It is still a very impressive structure, and still being used as a train station for very modern trains.

I have never been to Paris, but I am sure it would not feel much different

An executive, commuting by motorcycle. 

A common sight in Santiago.

This next "Then and Now" picture was also from the 1948 book, Fireside Travels in South America, by James Fitzpatrick.  At one time this was the home of the mayor Manuel Zaņartu.  It was built between the years 1750-1756 with daub, and has two floors.  In the book from 1948 it stated that it used to be the old "Moral Censor's Tavern", but was now (in 1948) a night club.  The night club has been gone for decades and it is now a national monument, and art gallery.  I found it amazing that the exposed block walls of the neighboring builds have not changed.  It is now called "Posada del Corregidor".

Time for another Jesse repair.

The welds are cracking!

Sandy did not find the welding process very exciting, so she took a brief nap...

She's going to hate me for posting this one!

Hey, no relationship is perfect!

The cost... $3.00.

Gave them a $2.00 tip!

I am betting that this weld will last the next 16,000 miles.

On Wednesday night we had dinner with over 30 motorcycle riders from Santiago.

This is ADV Rider, Thagua, also known as Roberto.

He brought us a statue of a couple on a motorcycle.

It is already on our bookcase at home.

Thanks Roberto... We will treasure it!

This is Jose Pedro Espinosa's African Twin. 

The bike is for sale, as he is looking to purchase a 990 KTM!

  The next picture requires a little story..........

We arrived in Santiago on Sunday, the 4th of December.  I stop the bike in front of a hotel, and Sandy gets off the bike, and goes in to see if there is a room available. 

As she walks up to the reservation desk, in her red and black riding outfit, a man stops her and asks her if she is the lady riding "Around the World" on the web site  She said yes she was.....    His name was Mark.  He  and Bonnie had just arrived from Idaho, to ride a rented 650 BMW around Chile for the next 7 weeks.  He had been following our travels on the web site for the last 3 months. 

Has the Internet made this a small world?!?!?!?  Had a nice dinner on Sunday, and they also joined us for dinner on this evening...

Dale and Sandy and Mark and Bonnie.

Mark is also known as MaxVert on

Adventure bikes in Santiago......
Bikers are bikers.....

Wherever you are...

That's it through the 7th of December, 2005.  To continue, click on the "Next" button, below...

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